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September 11, 2009, Vol. 7 No. 12

Table of Contents

Fabric is not always woven or knit!

A Product Review and Project Sample

Now for the Project Sample!

Garden Weave

Fabric is not always woven or knit!
While recycling has been around for years, our ancestors certainly had to reuse or repurpose items. Today, when something new just does not fit into a family's household budget, it has become the thing to do to be seen as one of the progressively cool people on the street in a repurposed item. Our parents were probably not quite so keen on wearing those patched jeans, as perhaps we are after turning a similar pair of denim jeans into a shopping bag. Let’s think outside the box just a little when looking for recycled items for your next sewing project. Why not leather, canvas, metal, paper and foils?

I recently came across an interesting recyclable fabric substitute when hosting a neighborhood get-together. Low and behold, on the back of the toasted chip bag was the address for Terracycle®, a company that aligns itself with participating snack companies to prevent their packaging from ending up in landfills. Terracycle® collects the empty bags from snack lovers who care and then turns them into useful products like backpacks, totes, folders and pencil cases. I saw firsthand the end product on the shelves in my local Target store. The folder and pencil case were each priced at a dollar.

Pencil case and folder created from
recycled food packaging.

I started thinking about what I could make from the bags I had saved from the party. It seemed quite silly to create a tote bag from a cracker bag, so I thought about it a little more. What would be appropriate yet useful considering the properties of crackers bags? For example, they have a foil lining, making them quite durable yet lightweight. It finally came to me: I would make a luggage tag; then everyone would be able to see not only my creative side but also my commitment to our planet.


My collection of cracker bags before the project.	A quickie recycled project. A luggage tag

Carefully press a sheet of Steam a Seam fusible web adhesive between two layers of the cracker bag material right sides out. Use a pressing cloth to prevent ink from the bag becoming melted to the surface of your iron. Cut two rectangles approximately 3” x 5”. Cut an opening from one of the rectangles approximately 1 1/2” x 3”, centering the opening app 1” down from one end. Insert a business card between the two rectangles, centering the card behind the opening. Stitch around the outside edges of the card through all layers and then again around edge of the luggage tag. Trim around the outside edges of the luggage tag using pinking shears. Punch a hole at one end using a hole punch and insert a 10” length of ribbon.

A Product Review and Project Sample
I first saw the Simplicity® Rotary Cutter and Bias Tape Maker during my visit to the Pittsburgh Quilt Show this past spring. I watched as the demonstrator showed the process of creating yards and yards of bias tape in minutes and was intrigued. Would it be quite so simple if you did not have all of the items prepped for the demonstration? How long does it actually take to make three yards of bias tape the old-fashioned way of cutting the strips, inserting them through the hand-held bias tape maker and pressing while pulling the fabric end through the tape maker. I decided to explore the art of making bias tape using the Simplicity machines.

Simplicity® Rotary Cutter and
Bias Tape Maker.

The first part of the test was to open the box of the Rotary Cutter machine, read the instructions and give it a try. I give it high marks as I managed to obtain great results the first time around with only a small adjustment having to be made, raising the blade for a perfect cut. I was able to change out the blades in the machine in minutes, and the serrated blade worked just as smoothly as the straight blade. The sliding adjustment bar is clearly marked, and with just a little practice, I was able to feed the fabric through the machine perfectly.

Simplicity® Rotary Cutting Machine.

Conclusion: If you are in need of yards of pre-cut fabric strips, whether straight cut or bias, this machine is fast, and you have the ability to cut continuous yardage for your project. Just imagine one continuous strip, no seams in sight.

The second test came when I opened the box containing the Bias Tape Maker. Once again the instructions were pretty clear and I did not have to wait too long for the light to come on indicating the machine was ready. I liked the fact that I can choose the heat setting, and the indicator light lets me know when everything is ready to go. After rolling the fabric onto the spool and fitting it into the machine, I used a straight pin to insert the end of the strip into the bias tape maker. I find cutting the end of the fabric strip at an angle is extremely helpful when feeding it through the taper maker. I snapped the heat cover over the fabric strip and was able to create perfectly pressed bias strips in no time at all. I am told that the spool is able to hold 12 1/2 yards of fabric strips, which is enough to bind a king-size quilt.

Simplicity®Bias Tape Maker.

Once again, if multiple yards of pressed bias strips are needed, this is the way to go. I quickly learned just how fast I could press the fabric strips with not one burned finger. The key, I believe, is to have a designated location for your machines, which eliminates the need to set them up each time they are called into service.

I have heard from my Simplicity® sources that new blades in a variety of cutting shapes as well as additional sizes for the bias tape maker are on the horizon. This is welcome news as I think I am addicted and eagerly await their arrival.

The Simplicity® Rotary Cutter and Bias Tape Maker are both available through Clotilde.com.

Now for the Project Sample!
A project is in order to show off my newly acquired cutting and bias tape-making skills. When faced with having to hand-dry a dish or two, I like a good quality cotton tea towel and recently picked up a couple from a clearance table at a local store as they seemed perfect for my project. Tea towels, as my Mother and therefore my entire family always called them, are not only a useful gift but can be embellished beautifully and quite simply, making them just a little more special.

Whether you own the Simplicity® Bias Tape Maker and Rotary Cutter or create your own bias tape using your favorite method, decorating a simple tea towel with your leftover binding strips makes a quick and easy gift.

Cut three strips of 1 7/8” wide fabric, press the raw edges under creating a 1” wide binding strip. Pin the strips parallel to the bottom edge of the tea towel tucking each of the raw ends under 1/2”. Stitch close to the pressed edges of the binding. Hand-stitch buttons and a bow to the front of the towel. Vioila!

Hostess Gift Towels by Lorine Mason

For your continued strip cutting and sewing pleasure, why not try creating a Garden Weave pillow?

Garden Pillow

Design by Lorine Mason

Coordinating checked floral prints team up in this pretty pillow. Bias piping accents the edges of the woven strips and garden paths. With the the combination of the crisp and clean colors, this pillow would make a perfect accent in your sunroom or breakfast nook.

Finished Size
Garden Weave: 18 inches square

Materials

54-inch-wide decorator fabrics
- 1 1/2 yards green-and-white check
- 5/8 yard coordinating floral botanical print on white background
5/8 yard cotton lining
14 yards 5/32-inch-diameter white cotton cord for the strip piping
2 1/2 yards 12/32-inch-diameter white cotton cord for outer-edge welting
18-inch-square pillow form
Rotary cutter, mat and ruler
All-purpose thread to match fabrics
Air- or water-soluble fabric marker
Basic sewing tools and equipment

Cutting for Garden Weave

From the green-and-white check, cut three 19-inch squares, one for the pillow front lining and two for the pillow back with envelope closure.
From the remaining check fabric, cut enough 1 1/2-inch-wide bias strips to make 14 yards of bias piping for the 5/32-inch-diameter cotton cord and enough 2-inch bias strips to make 2 1/2 yards of bias welting using the 12/32-inch-diameter cotton cord. Use bias seams to join the strips into continuous lengths.
From the floral botanical print, cut (12) 3 1/2 x 19-inch strips.
From the cotton lining, cut (12) 3 1/2 x 19-inch strips.

Assembly for Garden Weave
Project Notes: Use ½-inch-wide seam allowances unless otherwise directed.

1.	Refer to making fabric covered welting located at the end of the pillow instructions. Create 21/2 yards of bias welting for the outer edge of the pillow using the 2-inch-wide fabric strips and the 12/32-inch-diameter cotton cord. Create 14 yards of bias piping using the 11/2-inch-wide fabric strips and the 5/32-inch-diameter cotton cord.
2.	Cut the 14 yards of piping into 20-inch lengths.
3.	Set four 31/2 x 19-inch print strips aside for step 5. With raw edges even, sew a length of piping to the long edges of each of the remaining eight print strips. Use a contrast-color thread in the bobbin and adjust the zipper foot to the right of the needle so you can sew as close to the cord as possible (Figure 1).
4.	With right sides facing and raw edges even, pin a 3 1/2 x 19-inch cotton lining strip to each of the piped print strips. Pin in place along both edges. Turn over and stitch just inside the row of contrast basting on each long edge. It may feel as though you are crowding the cord, but you should be able to stitch a bit closer to the cord, just inside the basting. It’s not necessary to remove the basting. Turn each lined strip right side out and press (Figure 2). Trim piping ends even with the fabric strips.
5.	Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the four remaining strips, but sew piping to only one edge of each of the strips. Sew the lining to the piped edge of each strip as described above, and then turn the lining to the back of the strip and press. Machine-baste the long raw edges together a scant 3/8 inch from the raw edges.
6.	Working on a large flat surface, use the fabric marker to draw center lines on the right side of one of the 18-inch squares. Position piped strips along each side of the vertical lines and weave the third and fourth strips over and under them with their edges meeting at the horizontal line. Pin the strips in place, making sure to keep them straight and perpendicular to the placement lines (Figure 3).
7.	Continue weaving strips horizontally and vertically until you have covered the square with all but the last four strips. Pin the strips in place as you work. The outermost strip of each row will not have piping. Check the weaving to make sure all strips are straight and perpendicular to each other. Adjust as needed and then machine-baste a scant ½ inch from the raw edges to secure the woven strips to the checked square underneath (Figure 4).
8.	Turn under and press 1 inch along one edge of each of the remaining checked squares. Turn under and press an additional 3 inches. Edgestitch in place. Place the rectangles face up with the folded edges aligned, and then adjust one over the other so the resulting layered piece measures 19 inches square. Pin and baste the overlapped layers together (Figure 5).
9.	With right sides together and raw edges even, round the corners. Use a small saucer to mark the cutting line. Cut each corner on the marked line (Figure 6).
10.	. Place contrasting thread in the bobbin and attach the zipper foot to the machine. Beginning with the turned end of the welting a few inches from one corner, pin and sew it to the right side of the woven pillow top. Start the sewing about 2 inches from one corner and make a neat join when you reach the point where you started.
11.	. With right sides facing, sew the pillow back to the pillow front. Stitch with pillow top on top so you can see the basting and stitch just inside it as you did when constructing the piped strips for weaving. Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowance edges together.
12.	. With right sides facing, sew the pillow back to the pillow front. Stitch with pillow top on top so you can see the basting and stitch just inside it as you did when constructing the piped strips for weaving. Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowance edges together.

Making Fabric-Covered Welting

1.	Cut bias or straight-grain fabric strips at least 1 inch wider than the cable cord diameter. If you don’t know the diameter, wrap a piece of paper around the cord and pin in place. Trim the excess paper 1/2 inch from the pin and remove the paper. Measure it for the minimum cutting width required (figure 10).
2.	Sew the strips together to make one long strip equal to the distance around the pillow top, plus 5 or 6 inches. Use bias seams and press open.
3.	. Attach the zipper foot and adjust the foot to the right of the needle.
4.	Wrap the fabric strip around the cord, right side out, and align the raw edges. Machine-baste close to the cord, keeping the cord smooth inside the fabric as you stitch (Figure 11).
5.	If necessary, trim the seam allowance to an even 1/2 inch along the length of the wrapped cord.

From Garden Delights.
Copyright © 2004 Annie's Attic. All rights reserved.

Click here for a printer-friendly version.

Sew far – Sew good,

Lorine Mason
Editor, Sewing Savvy newsletter

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